Type = beef or dairy. Class = age/sex group for a particular kind of livestock, in this case cattle. Classes for sale cattle include the following: Bulls: bull calf, weaner/weanling bull, yearling bull, 2-year old bull, mature bull, bologna bull Cows: bred cow, open cow, three-in-one (cow bred with calf at side), cutter cow, canner cow, slaughter cow. Heifer: bred heifer, feeder heifer, open heifer, heiferette, weaned heifer, heifer calf Steer: feeder steer, dairy steer, steer calf Weight is always approximate, rounded to 100 pounds (45 kg). A word about breeds with large horns: Be aware that large horns mean an increased risk of harming yourself when handling the cattle, as well as intimidating other animals including horses. Be sure you want to own cattle with large horns; they look good but they’re harder to transport and to tether.
Of course, if you don’t have the money right on hand, you will have to make arrangements to pay later, preferably as soon as possible so you don’t forget.
Other places for purchasing cattle include breed registry or the breeders’ websites, state, province or county fairs, online auction sites/forums/email lists (buyer beware), local media and magazines, and possibly your local veterinarian/agricultural teacher/other professionals involved in agriculture.
Eyes: Should be bright, clear and not runny (no discharge), crusty or bloodshot. Nose: Should be cool, moist muzzle, with frequent licking; breathing should be regular, and not labored; beware of nasal discharge, coughing, wheezing or irregular/shallow breathing. Coat: Glossy, clean and generally unmatted (especially for long-haired breeds), free of extensive “tag” or dried feces over the body (exceptions can be made if there’s some tag on the rump, though tails covered in tag need to be questioned); beware of hair coats that appear mangy with some or a lot of hair-loss, have crusty lesions (typically ring-worm), or appear dull and/or dry. Weight: Cattle should look to be at their average weight for their breeding; beware of severely emaciated or thin cattle (even with dairy cattle; if you can plainly see their ribs they’re likely undernourished), or overly fat ones. Note, though, that judging body condition can be subjective. Attitude: Curious, alert and contented; beware of cattle that stand apart from the herd, seem disinterested in you, or show signs of aggressiveness, no matter how subtle those signs are. Check the location of the whorl on the forehead––the lower the whorl, the less flighty the animal. [6] X Research source Based on research undertaken by Dr. Temple Grandin. Mobility: Walking should be smooth and free of limps, legs and feet should look normal and free of sores, swelling, or lesions; beware of uneven gaits or subtle signs of injury by how the animal stands and walks on. Placement of hind feet to front feet is especially important with breeding stock, but not so much with stock being raised for meat. Udder (for dairy/breeding): It should be healthy; size isn’t necessarily an indicator of a good udder, but rather placement of both front and hind ligaments. It should sit forward and square, not sag too much either in the front and rear quarters, and not be too meaty (or appear to have too many fat deposits). Observe the cow when she walks––the udder should not show too much sideways movement. Teats should be small and neatly grouped under the udder, not too large and/or sticking at odd angles.
If the animal[s] aren’t worth your time or not to your expectations, neither buy nor bid on them. For buying cattle one-on-one, tell the owner you’re just shopping around and exchange other small talk, then say a friendly “thanks for letting me look at your animals. " When negotiating the price, don’t just think about cash and cattle. Also request expertise as part of the price, namely, the ability to call the owner for a set time in the future to ask questions or seek help, especially where problems might arise. Ask to see––and then check––the relevant registration papers before signing for purchase. Also ask to see vaccination, de-worming and production records.
Ask if there is a guarantee. Not all sellers are willing to give this but where the seller is, get it in writing.
Always have a separate area set up for new cattle being brought home. This gives them a chance to acclimate to their new space, see your existing cattle without actually having to meet them immediately and generally feel comfortable while settling in. If bringing home a bottle calf, have his or her milk replacement ready. If this is your first time for owning cattle, already know who your vet will be and have his or her contact details somewhere easily accessible. Also, have a halter and lead, adequate food, grooming gear and appropriate shelter.
